UAE Climbing: December 2007

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Bouldering additions

Did tried this blue route when we were shooting that movie. Only got it a couple of weeks later grade hard. Same for the backside route hard and pumpy through choss probably needs more crowbar work.

# posted by Elvis @ 8:30 PM 23 comments

Hey donkey man some eidtions to your bouldering guide

I remeber trying this blue route when we were shooting that movie never got it then but did it a couple of weeks later. You start the route from a seated postion underneath the overhang. What the grade would be i have no idea but it was hard. The backside route also done sometime back what the grade would be also hard.

# posted by Elvis @ 8:21 PM 0 comments

New routes at Hatta

Two new routes at hatta.

4. Atomic anteater 6b

3. Sugerplum Psycho 5b+

Enjoy

# posted by Elvis @ 7:54 PM 0 comments

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Wonderwall Boulders (beta version)

Grades
- all grades are tentative and awaiting consensus
- V? = V2 or harder

Campfire Blocks

1) Dash of Soda - V0 (any variation using the shallow pocket(s))
2) Neat - V1 (sharp crimpy flakes)
3) Salted Rim - V0
4) On the Rocks - V0

1) Shaken, not Stirred - V1
2) Lemon Slice - V1 (uses the big flake)
3) Chaser - V1
4) Swizzle Stick - V0

Good Morning Block

1) Crispy Fried Finger Skins - V?
2) Nontheoretical Number Three - V1
3) Freshly Squeezed Armpit Juices - V1
4) Liquidizer - V?
5) Dicer - V?
6) Slicer - V?
(all equiped with toprope chains)

1) Backside Arete - V0/sit start V?
2) Backside - V? (toprope chains)

Others
Mango Farming Bat Bees - V0 (2 blocks east of the Monkey Bars)

Backflip Boulder - V0/sit start V1 (2 blocks east of the Campfire Blocks)

Lurpak Crack - V0 (halfway up scree slope below Queen of Sheba)

Got a problem? Post it here.

New problems, grade consensus, "I did that one ten years ago mutha' fu%&a'.", etc. will be updated accordingly.

# posted by The Radatsa Flautist's Donkey @ 8:33 AM 6 comments

Sunday, December 16, 2007

New F7a+ at Roadside Crag, RAK

I bolted then led Damian's Groove yesterday at Roadside Crag. This slightly mythical line, just right of Thug Monkey, is thought to have been led on gear a few years ago by Damian Cook but was never documented. A bail-out krab+wire high in the groove has added to the mystery. Anyway it now goes at about F7a+ and is a major classic. The climbing is incredibly diverse: finger jams, hand jams, pocket pulling, marginal chimneying, bridging, knee bars, jug-hauling, etc, etc at a wildly overhanging angle.

Here are a few pictures of Guida top-roping it:

# posted by toby @ 3:27 AM 0 comments

Saturday, December 15, 2007

New Routes at Hatta

Some more work done this weekend at Hatta with the lovely new hangers and lower offs

One fully bolted beginners route Training Bra 5+ and toprope chains on a new project lead bolts to be placed over eid.
Thanks to all for donations to bolting fund.

Training Bra 5+