Thursday, February 22, 2007


First Ascent

Today I'm proud to announce that Anthony, age 3, made his first ascent of ... well ... anything.

Feast your eyes on the following photo essay of Anthony's epic assault on the notorious West Face of Good Morning Block.

Anthony making his way up to 'The Cave'

He considers an emergency bivouac ...

... but wisely decides to push on

Nearing the summit

Happy Ending

Friday, February 16, 2007


Meta: New Blogger switch over

For those of you who post on UAE Climbing, we have just switched over to "New Blogger".

As Elvis has pointed out, the system wasn't letting you post because we we're supposed to have already switched over or something like that.

So the next time you sign in:

1 - You will do it through "New Blogger"

2 - It will ask you to open a "Google Account" by providing an e-mail address (it doesn't need to be a gmail address, any e-mail address will do)

3 - You will then use the e-mail address as your password when logging on to Blogger from now on

It's all fairly straight forward, just follow the Blogger directions. And if you have any problems drop me an e-mail at

Good Luck!

Monday, February 05, 2007


The idyllic world of Wadi ****

Thought I'd share a few pictures of the bouldering and swimming we discovered over in Wadi **** last Saturday. Sport and trad climbing potential also.

Wolf, Suzanne, Tom

A few boulder problems, probably all done by others before:
1. V1 roof over the pool
2. V5 technical sharp moves into hanging groove
3. V2 superb roof and wall
4. V1 scary corner
5. V0+ slab with tricky start
Plenty more problems to be found up- and downstream

Toby striving for more points of contacts on problem 3

Wolf considering the blind footswap on problem 5

Dan flexing muscles unnecessarily on the pool roof

Sunday, February 04, 2007


New E5 at Spice World

Visiting Brit Dan Donovan onsighted a new line at Spice World last Friday 26th January. Apparently the line was cleaned and abandoned by Ian Gregory some years back. Dan wasn't particularly intending to do a new route, just thought it 'looked good'. This was his second climb in the UAE having flown in the previous morning. The name is tentatively Melanie Brown (Scary Spice ... geddit?) unless Dan volunteers something different. I seconded the route but am not offering any recommendation (frankly the whole of Wadi Bih can be broken up for Dubai breakwaters for all I care ...) but I guess it might rate *** in a local context.

Description: climbs the flake right of Salute of the Juggler to where it ends, fill the break with cams, rock up leftwards to a thin footledge then go boldly up and right to a prominent protruding feature (about 7m directly above the flake) then straight to the top above this to top out past a couple of cheesey corners. About E5 6a.

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