Wednesday, November 29, 2006

 

Disk World Topo

Disk World
How to get there
Head out to Wadi Bih at junction after army base were you would turn right you carry on straight carry on with this tar road for aprox 2.95 km passing Satellite dish on right as well as another military base Just after military base there will be a Gravel road heading of to right Follow this gravel road for 500 m were it will fork take left fork. Carry on with the gravel road for aprox 1.14 km till it joins a tar road (you will now see the crag other side village). Go left on this tar road travel just past village and leave road on right. Park under small tree.


What’s there?
Two full bolted sports route and one set of TR chains project. One trad line with descent chains. Potential for more obvious

Sports Routes
1 Nanny Ogg- F4c First line of bolts on left side straight up through what looks like loose rubble but is surprisingly sound

2 Greebo- F4c second line of bolts from left staying left of rubble rock thin balance moves at top crux

3. Project F5b the last water line mark to the left of the corner crack mantle small undercut at start for some crimpy balance moves all the way to top not bolted for lead yet but toprope chains in place


Trad Routes
4. Crack of Ohm F4.- The third corner crack from left just after the first steep section tend right to small ledge You can split into two pitches here to reduce drag. Head on straight up crack to set of Rappel chains on top block

5. Crack of Ohm variation F4 – Start round corner from original route


Tuesday, November 28, 2006

 

All Your Climbing Questions Answered!

I have recently discovered an invaluable online resource for all things climbing; technique, equipment, diet, training, you name it. So while you desk monkeys are putting in your time waiting for the weekend, you might want to check it out. I mean, it's not like any of you have any real work to do, right?

Sunday, November 26, 2006

 

So this is Bernie playing at posting a blog. After getting artsy on last week's pictures of Toby, what better next step than to show my next project(s) on Aladdin's Lamp Wall? Not much art here admittedly but the two dark streaks - and the face in between - shown in the center of the pic have oft-times caught my attention. Top anchors have been placed above the small roof seen at the very top of the left streak and the proposed route has been cleaned.

After the national holidays which will see Judy & I doing an overnight hike in Oman I will return to usual camping spot and continue. Stay tuned for progress and as I have felt a sort of groove returning to my climbing I trust it will not be long before the flutist's donkey (or is that the donkey's flutist?) will be announcing another sport route or three at WW

 

Fun at Wadi Bih

Here are some pictures of the wadi bih trip. The Morning session was at spice world boulders and afternoon over to evening wall.


RFD and the rest of his herd

Not happy camper


Safety Officer Kendell


Rob On Evening wall


Tom On Evening wall the entire sequence


Monday, November 20, 2006

 

No, Stick You!

Here are a few shots from last Friday of Toby on Ooh Stick You, new route described in the previous post. Unfortunately I didn't get any FA lead pics; you'll just have to use your imaginations. Thanks goes to Bernard for taking the photos.

Below the crux?

Above the crux?

Bernard gets all artsy on us

And here's a view looking up at the top of Fish Folly Fingers, also mentioned in the previous post, before Bernard's FA. It was a big day for the record books.

Bernard about to go to work with his drill on Fish Folly Fingers

 

new routes at Radatsa

A few new things were done over the last two weekends. Bernard finished bolting (how many years after starting?) Fish Folly Fingers on the Swiss Cheese Wall. No, I don't know what the name means ... About F5 ish.

Over to the right, next to the trad Bat Crack is a pretty pale water streak feature weirdly ignored until now. A combined effort by Bernard, Wolf and I turned this into Highway One. F4 or F3? It is already popular as it is: (1) the first route you hit hiking up from the parking spot; (2) fun and easy. It is also a good way to get to Hot Rats, Pete Aldwinckle's impressive 2-pitch F7a on the wall above.

Wolf leading (sort-of) the first ascent of Highway One



Leo bin Toby on the fourth ascent



Finally over at the Hole in the Wall area, I finished my project across the gully from Schools Out. This is Ooh Stick You (connoisseurs of late-90s ironic-teen-pop will immediately see the logic), about F7a+. Or F7a. Or F7b. I'm not really sure. Anyway it has some interesting moves. Thanks to The RFD for patient belaying and faff-tolerance and Scott for unknowingly donating the lower-off crab.

The routes are in an updated version of the topo.

Monday, November 13, 2006

 

Too Much Time At Our Desks And Not Enough Climbing


There has been a recent proliferation of climbing websites in the good ole' UE of A.

First up, Toby has put together a page of links and a rundown of all the bolted routes in the area.

Then we have Dave's blog with an entirely unique title.

Dave's other contribution is a local climbing forum. This will make the guys at the Oman forum happy since we'll have our own playground for verbal turf wars now.

The more the merrier I say, so all of these links and much much more can be found on the new and improved high fiber sidebar, now with fewer carcinogens. A cursory glance to your left will reveal that the by-law on climbing website name conformity is being strictly adhered to.

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

 

more DWS pics

Here are a few more photos (thanks to Dave, Guida and Saleeba):

A fun roof 'problem' spotted on day 2. Mike shows the way ...



The staff and customers of Global Climbing wait respectfully as CEO Pete heads out



... Toby on the same problem, apparently sponsored by Red Chilli



Another route of Mike's done on day 3. Toby on his way up, Dave on his way down



And, as promised, the awesome Barracuda Stack. Toby starting out ...



... Toby and Mike racing for the summit



Toby wondering how to get down?



Dave and Mike demonstrate the ropeless rappel








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