Tuesday, February 05, 2008
New Route - Shady Circus - Wadi Ghalilah
Step-one-Drop-one 155m VS Aiden Laffey , Tim Richards (alt) Jan 2008
Start just right of a semi circular 1m high ruin at the foot of the crag approx 10-15m to the right of Hornby Loco. A fairly direct and obvious line. The final pitch requires a ‘light touch’ to pick a way through a loose section of cliff.
Originally climbed in 4 pitches, the top pitch may now be possible in a single run out, now that a lot of the unstable rock has been cleared, but rope drag may be a problem. It’s a lot safer than on the first ascent!
1 50m 4C. Climb the slab, move up and turn the small overhang on the left. Follow the obvious groove to a yellow rock band and belay.
2 55m 3c Continue easily up groove and big corner above. Move right towards top of corner to belay on small wires in a niche 3m right of corner.
3 50m (25m+25m) 4c Climb delicately up the nose and slab heading towards a V groove left of big triangular overhang with dark stain underneath. (Possible belay in corner on the left). Pull over bulge with care and pick a safe way to the big finish terrace.
Note: The original diagram in the guide is incorrect. Hornby Loco actually starts further to the left than originally shown.
Start just right of a semi circular 1m high ruin at the foot of the crag approx 10-15m to the right of Hornby Loco. A fairly direct and obvious line. The final pitch requires a ‘light touch’ to pick a way through a loose section of cliff.
Originally climbed in 4 pitches, the top pitch may now be possible in a single run out, now that a lot of the unstable rock has been cleared, but rope drag may be a problem. It’s a lot safer than on the first ascent!
1 50m 4C. Climb the slab, move up and turn the small overhang on the left. Follow the obvious groove to a yellow rock band and belay.
2 55m 3c Continue easily up groove and big corner above. Move right towards top of corner to belay on small wires in a niche 3m right of corner.
3 50m (25m+25m) 4c Climb delicately up the nose and slab heading towards a V groove left of big triangular overhang with dark stain underneath. (Possible belay in corner on the left). Pull over bulge with care and pick a safe way to the big finish terrace.
Note: The original diagram in the guide is incorrect. Hornby Loco actually starts further to the left than originally shown.
# posted by lord of starkness @ 5:18 AM 
