Sunday, December 16, 2007


New F7a+ at Roadside Crag, RAK

I bolted then led Damian's Groove yesterday at Roadside Crag. This slightly mythical line, just right of Thug Monkey, is thought to have been led on gear a few years ago by Damian Cook but was never documented. A bail-out krab+wire high in the groove has added to the mystery. Anyway it now goes at about F7a+ and is a major classic. The climbing is incredibly diverse: finger jams, hand jams, pocket pulling, marginal chimneying, bridging, knee bars, jug-hauling, etc, etc at a wildly overhanging angle.

Here are a few pictures of Guida top-roping it:

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