Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Al Hamra Towers
All images enlarge if clicked
The towers from the road up to the pass over to Wadi Bani Auf
'En attendant les lents', around UK E1 or E2, on the east tower. The third and seventh pitches are the hardest. The traverse on pitch four is scary to second.
Me on pitch two
Dan following pitch three, an exposed and quite thin slab.
Dan on the top. Parking, path-up and houses of ultra-hospitable locals shown behind.
'La Mama', around UK E2 or E3, on the central tower. Sustained throughout, with bold climbing on pitch two and the hardest moves on pitches five and six
Dan soloing (really) the route in February
Scott at the same point, pitch three, on our March ascent. This is a nice layback crack with a few bolts.
Scott on the summit, Al Hamra town and slopes of Jebel Shams behind
Sunday, March 18, 2007
Old Cam Found
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
The Clones Attack The Two Towers
More from the Lame-o-Vision studios, this exercise in vain self-fellation stitches together three attempts on the left-hand Monkey Bars route to create one phoney pre-first-ascent ascent.
Sunday, March 11, 2007
(possibly lame) video experiment
If it worked for you: no, I don't recall why I thought the Manu Chuo track was appropriate ...
Sunday, March 04, 2007
The latest on those new sport routes on Aladdin's Lamp Wall
- EOC follows a groove to the left of Two Amigos. 12 bolts
- Redemption follows the next groove to the left of EOC. This line has 16 bolts (15 if you forget the second one which I did in my haste to get to less thinner areas)
Below is an updated picture of A. Lamp Wall
1) Sunrise over Red’dat Sa’a
1a) Possible future project: extension of Sunrise …
2) Crack Wipe
3) Easy Money
4) Breach of Contract
6) Think Fast Hippie
7) Two Amigos
9a) Unfinished Project: Redemption Variation
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Monkey Bars tutorial
First, wire an efficient sequence up the easy bit. 'Wire' means 'so you can do it the same way every time', right?
... get your right hand into the circular pocket as a sidepull on its left side ... don't try to match this hold. Or break it.
.. throw sideways for the dish. Really throw for it. Do not use technique (*). Get your left foot jammed well in the horizontal break to damp the swing, then match both hands in the dish ...
... left foot up to heel-hook the ledge on the left. Hook it firmly ...
... rock-up onto your left foot whilst snatching for little sharp edges and sidepulls with your left hand ...
... keep pulling and standing higher on your left foot and voila: the top.
* you could try kicking hard with your right foot to do a kind of pivot around the axis of your right hand/ left foot, whilst throwing with your left hand. Quite hard to describe. Whichever, think 'dynamic'.