UAE Climbing

What’s there?
Two full bolted sports route and one set of TR chains project. One trad line with descent chains. Potential for more obvious

Sports Routes
1 Nanny Ogg- F4c First line of bolts on left side straight up through what looks like loose rubble but is surprisingly sound

2 Greebo- F4c second line of bolts from left staying left of rubble rock thin balance moves at top crux

3. Project F5b the last water line mark to the left of the corner crack mantle small undercut at start for some crimpy balance moves all the way to top not bolted for lead yet but toprope chains in place


Trad Routes
4. Crack of Ohm F4.- The third corner crack from left just after the first steep section tend right to small ledge You can split into two pitches here to reduce drag. Head on straight up crack to set of Rappel chains on top block

5. Crack of Ohm variation F4 – Start round corner from original route

I have recently discovered an invaluable online resource for all things climbing; technique, equipment, diet, training, you name it. So while you desk monkeys are putting in your time waiting for the weekend, you might want to check it out. I mean, it's not like any of you have any real work to do, right?

Here are some pictures of the wadi bih trip. The Morning session was at spice world boulders and afternoon over to evening wall.

RFD and the rest of his herd

Not happy camper

Safety Officer Kendell

Rob On Evening wall

Tom On Evening wall the entire sequence

Here are a few shots from last Friday of Toby on Ooh Stick You, new route described in the previous post. Unfortunately I didn't get any FA lead pics; you'll just have to use your imaginations. Thanks goes to Bernard for taking the photos.

Below the crux?

Above the crux?

Bernard gets all artsy on us

And here's a view looking up at the top of Fish Folly Fingers, also mentioned in the previous post, before Bernard's FA. It was a big day for the record books.

Bernard about to go to work with his drill on Fish Folly Fingers

A few new things were done over the last two weekends. Bernard finished bolting (how many years after starting?) Fish Folly Fingers on the Swiss Cheese Wall. No, I don't know what the name means ... About F5 ish.

Over to the right, next to the trad Bat Crack is a pretty pale water streak feature weirdly ignored until now. A combined effort by Bernard, Wolf and I turned this into Highway One. F4 or F3? It is already popular as it is: (1) the first route you hit hiking up from the parking spot; (2) fun and easy. It is also a good way to get to Hot Rats, Pete Aldwinckle's impressive 2-pitch F7a on the wall above.

Wolf leading (sort-of) the first ascent of Highway One



Leo bin Toby on the fourth ascent



Finally over at the Hole in the Wall area, I finished my project across the gully from Schools Out. This is Ooh Stick You (connoisseurs of late-90s ironic-teen-pop will immediately see the logic), about F7a+. Or F7a. Or F7b. I'm not really sure. Anyway it has some interesting moves. Thanks to The RFD for patient belaying and faff-tolerance and Scott for unknowingly donating the lower-off crab.

The routes are in an updated version of the topo.

There has been a recent proliferation of climbing websites in the good ole' UE of A.

First up, Toby has put together a page of links and a rundown of all the bolted routes in the area.

Then we have Dave's blog with an entirely unique title.

Dave's other contribution is a local climbing forum. This will make the guys at the Oman forum happy since we'll have our own playground for verbal turf wars now.

The more the merrier I say, so all of these links and much much more can be found on the new and improved high fiber sidebar, now with fewer carcinogens. A cursory glance to your left will reveal that the by-law on climbing website name conformity is being strictly adhered to.

Here are a few more photos (thanks to Dave, Guida and Saleeba):

A fun roof 'problem' spotted on day 2. Mike shows the way ...



The staff and customers of Global Climbing wait respectfully as CEO Pete heads out



... Toby on the same problem, apparently sponsored by Red Chilli



Another route of Mike's done on day 3. Toby on his way up, Dave on his way down



And, as promised, the awesome Barracuda Stack. Toby starting out ...



... Toby and Mike racing for the summit



Toby wondering how to get down?



Dave and Mike demonstrate the ropeless rappel